Makin Soup — Bouillon and Consommé

General Directions for Makin Soup — Bouillon and Consommé

Uncooked meat is the base of all soups, except such as the Creoles call "Maigre," or fast-day soups. These delightful Cream Soups, or Purees, will be specially treated later. Soups enter largely into the domestic life of New Orleans, as also more particularly the Pot-au-Feu, the Bouillon and the Consommé. These three are the "mother-soups," for upon their careful preparation depends taste, flavor and the entire problem of good soup making.

The Creoles have preserved with few modifications many of the customs of their French ancestors, among them being the daily plate of soup.

ln France soup enters far more largely into the life of the people than in this old French city of New Orleans. The morning cup of bouillon is served in the most exclusive homes. A cup of claret and a plate of good soup form the essential morning portion of the peasantry. The Creoles have eliminated the morning cup of bouillon, but retained the daily serving of soup at dinner, in time introducing as a frequent substitute that exclusive Creole concoction gumbo. No dinner is considered complete without either. The custom has been very generally adopted by American residents of New Orleans. The Creole housewife lays the greatest stress upon two great essentials in the making of good soup: in the first place, the soup must never stop boiling one instant until done; secondly, once the soup is started, water must never be added. Neither, on the other hand, must the soup be allowed to boil rapidly, or it will be muddy and lose much of its flavor and strength by evaporation. The "soup bone," or "bouilli," as the Creoles call it in New Orleans, must be put on in cold water, without salt, and must heat slowly. The pot must be kept well covered, and no salt must be added until the meat is thoroughly cooked, as the addition of salt tends to harden the fibers of the meat and prevents the free flow of the juices. At no stage must the soup be allowed to boil fast. if the bone has been fractured every inch of its length, the soup will be all the stronger and more nutritious. The beef should be selected for its quality, as freshly killed as possible, and preferably of the cut known by butchers as "the horseshoe." To be most nutritious the soup should boil a long time. The Creoles never serve soup that has been cooking less than five or seven hours, according to the quantity to be made. ln a well-regulated household the soup is put on at noon on the rear of the stove, and allowed to cook slowly for four or five hours, until the time comes for putting on the dinner proper. When the moment for adding the vegetables or other ingredients arrives, the strength of the meat has been nearly or quite extracted.

The two suggestions, "never allow the soup to cease boiling when once it has begun, and never to add water after the ingredients are once put together and begin to boil," have been called the "Golden Rule" of soup making. The housekeeper should take them to heart, for upon their strict observance depends a good plate of soup. lf these rules are learned and faithfully followed, the first step has been taken towards setting a good dinner.

Rice flour, arrowroot or corn starch mixed with a little water are often used to thicken soups; but every good Creole cook knows that the soup that is properly made needs no thickening. Salt should be used sparingly, as also spices, which should always be put in whole. To be palatable, soup must be served very hot.

It is generally estimated that in preparing soups a pound of meat should be allowed for every quart of water. The intelligent housekeeper can readily determine the exact measurements needed in her family, increasing proportions when guests are expected.

Simple Bouillon

The Pot-au-Feu, or Bouillon, is made by boiling a good soup bone, which has been carefully selected for its nutritive qualities, in water a certain length of time, by means of which the nutriment is extracted. Bouillon of the best quality can only bo made from good meat, which should be chosen from the fleshy, juicy part of the thigh. Meat from the breast or lower ribs makes good Pot-au-Feu, but of a lighter quality, and is preferred by some Creole cuisinieres.
The vegetables used are found in the "soup bunch," which comprises pieces of cabbage, a turnip or two, carrots, parsley, celery and onion. Many Creole cooks add garlic and cloves, thyme, bay leaf and allspice. But this is a matter of taste. The every-day Bouillon is made by boiling the soup bone for four or five hours, skimming carefully as the scum rises, and adding, as it starts boiling well, the vegetables contained in the "soup bunch." If vermicelli, macaroni or other soup is desired, such as can be made from the simple Bouillon, or Pot-au-Feu, these ingredients are added in the proportions mentioned in the special recipe for these soups, and the soup is boiled an hour or so longer.

The Herb Bouquet

Every good Creolecook keeps on hand an "herb bouquet," made of a spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme, celery and bay leaf. These are tied together, and constitute the "bouquet." It will flavor a gallon of soup, if cooked for an hour.